Dokkodo: Lonesome Road of Running

Day 31 began with a 5:30 AM wake-up call. I had gone to bed a little past 11:00 PM the night before. I am currently in a quiet settlement in Bergama, with the town’s Acropolis looming just behind it. The only sound to be heard is the rain. Since Ayhan-san had some personal business to attend to this morning, I spent the first half of the day with Mustafa-san from a local FM radio station, who kindly looked after me. I set off before 8:00 AM and arrived at "BEST FM BERGAM" by 8:30 AM. I had breakfast with Mustafa-san on the patio, and we spent the morning chatting. The head of the Bergama Sports Association even stopped by to say hello. It was reassuring to find that he understood just how dangerous it is to continue traveling along the national highway on foot. And, once again, I enjoyed a waffle. It was topped with strawberries, bananas, pistachio cream, and chocolate sauce. A "waffle bowl," perhaps? I’m definitely leaning toward an excess of sugar today. People we...

DAY 30, woke up at 4:30 AM. It’s a warm morning, but rain seems unavoidable today. It appears that low-lying areas here are prone to flooding. Turkey is a country with many people who are fond of Japan; it’s heartening to see how quickly people’s faces light up with a smile when I reveal that I’m Japanese. I would be happy if I could contribute to a mission of sorts—sharing what Japan is like today with the people of Turkey, and sharing what Turkey is like today with the people of Japan. While I claim to be indifferent to food and sightseeing, the truth is that if I were to try every delicious dish or visit every tourist spot along this journey, I wouldn’t have time for anything else. Since I am enjoying the very process of traveling over an extended period, my goal is more about getting a sense of what life is like for the people who live in these places. Before dawn, I take a moment to reset my mindset as I prepare to set off. Amidst a mix of anxiety and anticipation, I strive to cle...

DAY 29, 5:00 AM. I can hear the sound of rain outside my window. Thankfully, many people follow my journey online every single day. I’ve been receiving messages of support and comments—something that wouldn’t have been possible back in the analog era of the Showa period. Today’s route takes me from Küçükköy to Dikili, a distance of about 30 kilometers. This area is a summer beach resort, but it’s quite quiet during the off-season. Rain gear is a must again today. According to my schedule, a month from today I should be finishing my journey in Antalya and heading back to Istanbul by plane. I’m set to fly back to Osaka on a late-night flight on December 3rd. Whether I end up laughing or crying, there’s only one month left. I’d be happy if I could keep smiling every single day! Started at 7:45 AM. Shortly after, Mustafa—whom I was supposed to meet yesterday—came by my accommodation this morning. I’m being interviewed for a radio program. After leaving the D550 highway near Altınova, I’m h...

On Day 28, I woke up at 4:30 AM to the sound of thunder and flashes of lightning. It looks like I might encounter some rain again today. November has begun. My goal is to reach Antalya by the end of this month. Although I didn’t cover much ground in the first half of the trip, I intend to keep moving forward at a sustainable pace. I want to make sure I never lose my sense of gratitude, excitement, and wonder. Today’s destination is Küçükköy, about 30 kilometers away. There’s such a wonderful, happy feeling when putting on a shirt or jacket in the morning that’s been freshly washed—no trace of sweat-odor… Breakfast this morning. *Ayran* (a salty yogurt drink), muesli, a banana, dried fruit, and nuts. I set off at 7:40 AM, just as the sun was rising. Heading south along the D550 highway. Around 11:00 AM, while stepping down from a sidewalk curb, one of the inner spokes on my rear-left wheel snapped—yet again. Sidewalk curbs in Turkey are twice as high as those in Japan, and many lack pro...

On Day 27, I woke up at 6:00 AM. Today is a short day—only 15 kilometers to Burhaniye. There’s a fairly large bike shop in Edremit (close to my hotel), so I plan to buy some new tires. I’m hoping they have the Schwalbe "Marathon" tires—I’ve used them before and really like them. The shop doesn’t open until 10:00 AM, so I’ll be getting a late start. It’s mostly cloudy, but it’s warmer near the coast, away from the mountains. Breakfast at 8:00 AM. I checked out at 9:30 AM and headed to "Bisikletce" in Edremit. They didn’t have the Schwalbe Marathons, but I picked up some other tires and puncture-protection liners instead. A commemorative photo with the shop staff. Taking a break in a quiet park in Çıkrıkçı. Blue skies for the first time in a while! It’s a crisp, pleasant autumn day. I took country roads instead of the main highway, but part of the route turned into a muddy dirt path—my shoes got soaked! I didn’t end up completely covered in mud, but I’d definitely pre...