Dokkodo: Lonesome Road of Running

Day 9: Cloudy skies. It looks like it rained overnight, and the forecast calls for more rain this afternoon. Temperatures are ranging from 14°C to 21°C. I set off at 7:15 AM, right after breakfast, and immediately got onto the D575 highway. The fenced sidewalk suddenly ended, forcing me to unload my gear and carry the buggy over the gap. You can't always rely on sidewalks in Turkey; even if you get onto one, it often turns out to be a dead end. It took about three hours to reach a mountain pass at an elevation of around 300 meters. It was quite a long haul. Although the 7% gradient was steady, a long, drawn-out uphill climb takes a psychological toll. With about 10 kilometers left to go, I turned off the D575 onto a back road. I stopped at a BIM store along the way to pick up a few things. There’s almost always a cat hanging around the entrance of these supermarkets. It was a pleasant road that wound through orchards. It was a relief that there was hardly any car traffic. Afterward...

Woke up at 4:00 AM. Since breakfast wasn't included this morning, I ate whatever snacks I had on hand and set off at 7:00. Today’s route to Gemlik covers just over 30 kilometers. Temperatures range from 15°C to 24°C. There is a mountain pass of about 300 meters to cross along the way. It’s a cloudy day. It looks like steady rain might set in starting tomorrow. I plan to take a rest day the day after I arrive in Bursa. The climb begins shortly after starting. The gradient isn't particularly steep, but it’s a long, steady uphill slog. I make my way up at a leisurely pace, taking short breaks now and then. Reached the top of the pass just after 9:00 AM. The weather is pleasant—neither too hot nor too cold. I enjoy the descent from here. There were a few more uphill sections along the way, but I entered the town of Orhangazi after the 16-kilometer mark. It’s a bustling town, too. A staff member at an electronics shop called out to me and treated me to coffee and water. It seems the...

I woke up at 6:00 AM to the sound of the *adhan* (call to prayer). The shirts I had washed the night before were dry. Since I couldn't find an affordable place to eat yesterday, I had made do with the fruit and bread I’d brought along for dinner. After showering and packing my gear, I had breakfast just before 8:00 AM. Today, instead of a buffet, a single plate with a pre-portioned meal was brought to me. It’s great to get some nutrition from things like cheese and eggs. Come to think of it, I haven't seen any Chinese restaurants here; I spotted just one sushi place in Istanbul. Does that mean Turkish people simply love Turkish cuisine that much? There was a large dog in the restaurant. It had a look on its face that seemed to say, "If you're offering something, I'll take it" (lol). Set off at 8:20 AM. It’s sunny again today, with temperatures ranging from 15°C to 26°C. Heading to Yalova, 28 kilometers away. The coastal road is mostly flat. Switched onto the D...

Breakfast at 7:20 AM. Departed Izmit just before 8:00 AM. Switched from the D100 to the D130 and headed west. Traffic wasn't exactly light, but it was somewhat better than on the D100. Arrived in Gölcük around 10:30 AM and was treated to *çay* (Turkish tea) by a local resident named Ersin at a seaside café. He told me he loves riding his Suzuki motorcycle all over the country. When I told him about the PEACE RUN, he followed me on Instagram. Whenever I turn onto quieter back roads, local cats always come out to greet me. The cats around the seaside café in Gölcük were eating fish given to them directly by anglers. I'm traveling along the southern coast of the Sea of ​​Marmara; the opposite shore is Gebze, where I passed through the other day. The Körfez area is an industrial zone; even from here, the town looked hazy from the smoke rising out of the chimneys. The seaside promenade is always pleasant. I wish a path like this would continue forever. Covered 38.6 km today. Arrived...

Day 5: A rest day in Izmit. Woke up at 5:30 AM. The hotel is right in the middle of the bustling downtown area, yet it’s quiet in the morning. Took a short walk around the city this morning. I heard there’s a bicycle shop nearby, so if they have 20-inch tires, I plan to buy and replace mine. I’ll also re-evaluate the route for the days ahead. Today’s temperature ranges from 11°C to 26°C. It’s chilly in the morning but looks like it will get a bit hot during the day. On days I run, I focus entirely on running; on days I don’t, I don’t think about running at all. I don’t even put on my running shoes. This mental switch is crucial. I suspect that runners who frequently suffer injuries or breakdowns often struggle to make this kind of mental switch. Well, that excludes people who run all year round, of course (haha). Regarding my journey across Turkey, the route has changed a few times, but after reconsidering, I’ve decided not to go to Ankara and instead take the coastal route heading wes...

Woke up at 5:30 AM. Went for breakfast at 7:00 AM. A buffet-style meal at the hotel's restaurant. There was a wide variety of options, including cheese, bread, egg dishes, and vegetables. It’s easy to end up eating too much with a spread like this. Picked up the laundry I had dropped off yesterday. In Turkey, you rarely see coin-operated laundromats outside of Istanbul. The hotel's laundry service cost 600 Lira (approx. 2,000 yen) per load. Hand-washing takes a long time to dry, so I figured it was worth it to have it done professionally. Departed at 11:00 AM, seen off by the kind hotel staff. They asked to take a commemorative photo, and I happily agreed. They even followed me on Instagram. Körfez was a wonderful, lively city. Now, heading east. Just before noon, I took a break at a park in Kocaeli, located above the D100 highway tunnel. Even there, the noise and exhaust fumes were unavoidable. The temperature was a comfortable 21°C; taking off my jacket felt just right. After...